Let the Silence Speak at Rewalsar

There are certain places you visit during a journey unplanned. On the spur of the moment. It is only after being to these spots that you realize how worthwhile it was to visit them. Rewalsar was one such destination for us. We visited it in the summer of year 2007.

We had just one day left as our holidays drew to a close. We drove down to Rewalsar, about 25 kms from Mandi, on our way back from Manali with no big surprises/plans in mind. I had only heard of a lake and few monasteries around it.

In the month of May, the weather was warm and sunny on the road to Rewalsar, quite different from the weather in Manali. There had been some showers in the valley (which meant a thin layer of ice up in Rohtang).

As we came down, the hills shrunk and the greenery on top of the hills grew less. There were no more apple orchards lining the road. Just regular vegetation that reminded me I was approaching Delhi and the vacation was ending.

But the moment we entered Rewalsar, a small town in Mandi district, my mood changed. Was it a historical town? Or a grand location? Not exactly. But the interesting mixed population of the town struck me first. There were monks, playful Tibetans youth/kids, a few Himachali people and probably an equal number of foreigners.

The lanes were just wide enough to fit a medium-sized car, else you would run into a monastery. In a few minutes, I was able to figure out that the entire town was hardly a few metres across and then the lake began. The lake was sombre, green, and so peaceful. Even ripples created by wind ruffled its surface.

A lake Stay

We soon checked into a HPTDC hotel, which matched the calmness of the lake and town. The hotel was clean and has basic amenities in true sarkari (government) style. If you are not too much of a city slicker you would love the place.

We chose a corner room, which offered a colourful view of the town and a giant statue of Lord Buddha. I suddenly realised that my physical and mental fatigue had eased. I was ready to embark on a walk in the town.

We were advised to shut our rooms to keep our belongings safe from mischievous monkeys, who lived just a floor above, over the slanting roof of the hotel and adjoining trees.

The hotel clerk also told us that we did not need to waste eight hours a night sleeping because the silence of the town was so magical one could feel recharged in just four or five hours.

I completely agreed with him.

We decided to go for a walk. You don't need a car to get around town; it would be just a 10 minute drive. Close to the HPTDC hotel was Hotel Lotus Lake. This hotel, we discovered, was rather nice and modern. Most of the people staying there were tourists. They were all over the hotel -- eating Maggi noodles in the cafe, reading novels and praying.

Apart from the life around the lake one has to also take a look at the life inside the lake. The lake swarmed with fish which you cannot see unless you open up a pack of biscuits or offer them atta balls, available locally. They are considered holy fish and nobody is allowed to hook them or drink water from the lake.

The locals vouch for the holy nature of the lake -- if you pray here with a true heart your wishes are fulfilled. You cannot complete a visit to the lake without visiting the Lomas Rishi temple. The pujari told us that the name Rewalsar came from names of Rishi Putri Rewa and Lomas Rishi.

Kuntikund, Naina Devi Temple, and yet another monastery on the peak

Seven kms from Rewalsar was a web of lakes, which were full during the rainy season. A local told us that these lakes are of different colours and came into being during the days of the Mahabharata, when Arjun shot an arrow to fetch water for Kunti. We could not go there because a heavy downpour was expected.

The road will guide you to another monastery and a Naina Devi temple, which is thronged by Himachali during Navratris. The monastery was even calmer than those at Rewalsar lake. When we reached a few old ladies guided us to a dark cave in which a huge statue of Lord Buddha was seated. For once in my life, the silence deafened my ears.

By the time we returned to the hotel after our grand round of Rewalsar it was five. We were famished and decided to go the Tibet way. Unless you are missing parathas, rajma and similar Indian fare you will find the thupka, noodles and momos quite satisfying. It was a wonderful end to a lovely day

And by nightfall I was ready to stay in Rewalsar forever.

A few facts

Rewalsar is located at an altitude of 4,100 feet, south-west of Mandi in Himachal Pradesh. You can book the hotel in advance at HPTDC office (www.hptdc.nic.in). The hotel also offers sleeping quarters for drivers.

Try the various Tibetan shops for local souvenirs, T-shirts, prayer wheels, malas

Behind HPTDC hotel is a local market for mithai fruits, vegetables and hand-made shoes.

Lastly an early morning walk around the lake, with the background of chants in the monasteries around, is extremely soothing.